Ferret Facts

Ferret Facts Ferret Introduction (courtesy Ferret Central) Ferrets are domestic animals, cousins of weasels, skunks and otters. (Other relatives include minks, ermines, stoats, badgers, black-footed ferrets, polecats, and fishers.) They are not rodents; taxonomically they're in between cats and dogs, a little closer to dogs. They are friendly and make excellent pets. If you've never met one before, the easiest way to think of them is somewhere between cats and dogs in personality, but rather smaller. They can only see reasonably well, but they have excellent senses of hearing and smell. Some are cuddly and bond well (know and love a principle human) while others are more independent. Ferret personalities vary a lot, just like other pets. They have the peculiar instinctive behavior of jumping sideways or backwards, without looking, when playing or being approached, so they can fall off chairs and sofas easily. A friend tells the true story of his female ferret, Wilma, being startled by a stranger and jumping backwards into a campfire (she recovered). They can be trained to use a litter box and to do tricks, and most of them love to go places with you, riding on a shoulder or in a bag. They sleep a lot, and they don't particularly mind staying in small places (a cage, for instance, or a shoulder bag) temporarily, although they need to run around and play for at least a couple of hours a day. A "single" ferret won't be terribly lonely, although the fun of watching two or three playing together is easily worth the small extra trouble. How long do ferrets live? Ferrets typically live 6 to 10 years, with 6 apparently more common than 10. How much do ferrets cost? Prices for ferrets vary widely from place to place, and depending on where you get the ferret. Prices for stores and breeders are usually in the US $75-$250 range, typically around $100. Plan on another $100-$250 for a cage and supplies, plus around $85 for the first batch of distemper and rabies vaccinations the first year (annual, thereafter). Of course, there are also regular costs of caring for the ferret. They don't eat much, so food and litter aren't a huge expense, but there are also treats and hairball remedies, plus the annual checkups and vaccinations. In addition, though it might not happen, you should be prepared to pay for at least one major vet visit in each ferret's lifetime from his getting sick, being in an accident, or eating something he shouldn't. What are the different ferret colors? Ferrets often change colors with the seasons, lighter in the winter than in the summer, and many of them lighten as they age, too. Different ferret organizations recognize different colors and patterns, but unless you're planning to enter your ferret in a show, the exact label isn't particularly important. Some of the more commonly accepted colors are described in general terms below, adapted from summaries written by William and Diane Killian of Zen and the Art of Ferrets and Pam Troutman of STARFerrets. The albino is white with red eyes and a pink nose. A dark-eyed white can have very light eyes and can possibly be confused with an albino. These can actually range from white to cream colored with the whiter the color the better. A dark-eyed white (often called a black-eyed white) is a ferret with white guard hairs but eyes darker than the red of an albino. The sable has rich dark brown guard hairs with golden highlights, with a white to golden undercoat. A black sable has blue-black guard hairs with no golden or brownish cast, with a white to cream undercoat. The chocolate is described as warm dark to milk chocolate brown with a white to golden or amber undercoat and highlights. A cinnamon is a rich light reddish brown with a golden to white undercoat. This can also be used to describe a ferret with light, tan guard hairs with pinkish or reddish highlights. Straight tan is a champagne. A silver starts out grey, or white with a few black hairs. The ferret may or may not have a mask. There is a tendency for the guard hair to lighten to white evenly over the body. As a ferret ages each progressive coat change has a higher percentage of white rather than dark guard hairs. Eventually the ferret could be all white. White patches on the throat might be called throat stars, throat stripes, or bibs; white toes, mitts (sometimes called silver mitts), or stockings go progressively further up the legs. A blaze or badger has a white stripe on the top of the head, and a panda has a fully white head. A siamese has an even darker color on the legs and tail than usual and a V-shaped mask; and a self is nearly solid in color. I'm allergic to cats. Will I be allergic to ferrets?* There's really no way to tell. You could be highly allergic to some other animal and have no problems at all with ferrets. If you think you might be allergic, visit a pet store, breeder or friend who has one and check. Allergies might make you sneeze, or you might have a skin reaction from touching or being scratched by a ferret. One person wrote me to say he was allergic only to intact males, so you may want to try contact with females or neutered males as well. Also note that some people are allergic to the perfumes pet stores often put on animals, but not to the animals themselves. Okay, what's the catch? Ferrets have lots of good points as pets, but there are some negatives as well. Like kittens and puppies, they require a lot of care and training at first. They're "higher maintenance" than cats; they'll take more of your time and attention. Ferrets have their own distinct scent, which bothers some people, and many of them aren't quite as good about litter pans as cats are. Although most ferrets get along reasonably well with cats and dogs , it's not guaranteed, so if you have large, aggressive pets (particularly dogs of breeds commonly used for hunting), keep that in mind. Likewise, small children and ferrets are both very excitable, and the combination might be too much. Finally, many ferrets tend to scratch and dig at the carpet. Naturally, these traits vary from one ferret to another, but they're all pretty common. If you're not willing to take the necessary time to protect your property and your pet, a ferret may not be for you.	SCRUFFING The term scruffing refers to a technique an owner can use to temporarily immobilize or discipline a ferret. Much as a mother cat picks up a kitten by the nape of the kitten's neck, a ferret owner can painlessly pick up a ferret by the nape of its neck. In addition to holding the ferret by the nape of the neck, for larger ferrets, it is also advisable to support the hind end of the ferret with another hand. Scruffing a ferret causes the ferret to be still, so that nail trimming, medicine administration, and the like can be performed. In addition, scruffing can be used as a form of negative discipline with a ferret. If a ferret has exhibited undesirable behavior (i.e. nipping, etc.), the owner would scruff the ferret, and potentially drag the ferret, feet-side down, about a foot along the floor, while saying "No" firmly. Care should be given not to be too rough with the ferret if this type of behavior management is chosen. Positive reinforcement should always be a part of a good training program for a ferret.

hob = a male gib = neutered male jill = a female sprite = neutered female kit = baby ferret of either sex

Shed? Yes, ferrets shed twice a year, like cats and dogs.

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Do ferrets smell bad? What can I do about it?
Ferrets have an odor all their own, just like any pet. Some people like the musky scent, a few can't stand it, and most are in between. If the ferret isn't yet altered, having that done will cut down on the odor a lot; whole (un-neutered) males, particularly, have a very strong smell. Young kits also have a peculiar, sharp scent which they lose as they get a bit older. Descenting a ferret doesn't change the day-to-day smell. Only the scent glands near the tail are removed, which prevents the ferret from releasing bad-smelling musk if it's frightened, but doesn't stop the normal musky oils which come from glands throughout the skin.

The two big things you can do to cut down on your ferret's odor are to bathe him less -- yes, less -- often and to clean his bedding more often. Most of the musk stays in the cloth, on the litter or paper, and on your floors and furniture, not on the ferret himself. Cleaning them can be a big help. Also, right after a bath the ferret's skin glands go into overdrive to replenish the oils you just washed away, so for a few days the ferret will actually smell worse. Foods containing fish may make your ferret, or his litter pan, smell worse than those with chicken, lamb, etc. You may also find that your ferret smells more during shedding season in the spring and fall.

How can I help the ferret community?
There are lots of ways you can help the ferret community at large. If your ferrets are very trustworthy and have had their vaccinations, take them with you to the park or pet store and show people what wonderful pets they are, to counteract all the false rumors. (Be very careful, though: if your ferret should nip or scratch someone, even by accident, some states will kill him for rabies testing, even if he's been vaccinated. You may want to only let people pet his back.) Give good ferret information, perhaps a copy of this general FAQ and the Medical FAQs, to your vet. Adopt, foster, or sponsor a ferret from a local shelter, or donate old towels, shirts, food, litter, cages, money, or time. Many shelters could use help with construction projects, computer setup and use, recordkeeping, etc., as well as day-to-day ferret care, cage cleaning, and trips to the vet. To find a shelter near you, see the STAR*Ferrets list of clubs, shelters, etc. or contact a local ferret club.

Is a ferret a good pet for a child?
Many people have both children and ferrets without problems, but there's a difference between having both children and pets, and getting a pet for your child. It's important to remember that a ferret is a lot like a cat or dog, and will require the same kind of care and handling. It's not at all like keeping a pet hamster or guinea pig. If your child is responsible, careful, and not too young, and you're willing to supervise and help out with the care, a ferret will be a great pet. Otherwise, consider getting a low-maintenance pet you can keep in a cage instead.
Supervise children with any pets (I don't recommend ferrets for people with children under 6 or 7 - either the child or the ferret ends up getting hurt).

It is definitely necessary to monitor interactions between young children and ANY pets closely, and to make sure children know the proper way to handle pets. A living creature needs, and deserves, to be treated with more care than a toy. Ferrets in particular love to pounce and wrestle when they play, which may frighten children, and children tend to play rather roughly, which may prompt a more vigorous response from an active ferret than from a typical cat. Just as some very friendly dogs become nervous around children because they don't look, smell, or act like adults, some ferrets who aren't used to kids don't quite know how to behave around them. Make sure both your child and your ferret understand what's expected of them, and what to expect from the other one. At least one person suggests that ferrets brought up around other animals, including other ferrets, will adjust to a child better than ones only used to adult humans.

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Are ferrets wild? Why are there ferret permits?
Domestic pet ferrets, Mustela furo (sometimes called Mustela putorius furo), are not wild animals. They have been domesticated for a very long time, perhaps two or three thousand years. They're not equipped to survive for very long on their own; escaped pets suffer from dehydration, starvation and exposure, and usually don't survive more than a few days unless someone takes them in. Unlike cats and dogs, ferrets aren't even large enough to push over garbage cans and scavenge. Domestic ferrets are generally believed to be descended from the European polecat; they were originally used as hunting animals to catch rabbits and rodents. They weren't supposed to kill the prey, they just chased them out of their holes and the farmers (hunters) killed them. This practice is now illegal in the U.S. and Canada, but it's still fairly popular in the U.K. and some other places.

What's an FFZ, and why do they exist?
A "ferret-free zone," or FFZ, is a place where ferrets are banned or illegal. In some other places, ferret owners are required to have licenses or permits. States, counties, and municipalities outlaw or restrict ferrets for a variety of reasons, pretty much all invalid. The fundamental problem is the popular misconception that ferrets pose a serious rabies danger, and the unfounded idea that escaped ferrets (nearly all of which are spayed or neutered) will form feral packs and threaten livestock or native wildlife. The only states which now ban ferrets are California and Hawaii. In the face of overwhelming evidence, many areas are being persuaded to change their outdated regulations.

Are ferrets legal where I live? Do I need a license?
Depending on where you live, ferrets may be completely unregulated, require a license to breed but not to own, require a permit to own, or be entirely illegal. This varies by state or province, county, and city.
You can find out about your town by calling the local Wildlife Department or Fish and Game Department, the humane society, or veterinarians (recommended in that order). Note that some pet stores in FFZs sell ferrets anyway, so the presence of one in your corner store may not be any indication of their legality, and I wouldn't necessarily trust the pet store to be honest about local laws.

Katie Fritz has compiled an extensive, though not complete, list of FFZs. If you have or want more information, contact her at <redshoes@ix.netcom.com>. Here's a list of some of the larger places where ferrets are illegal, as of April 1997. A more extensive list is also available.

California, Hawaii
Washington, DC; Dallas, Ft. Worth, Beaumont, and various other cities in TX; Bloomington and Burnsville, MN; Tulsa, OK; Columbus, OH; London, York, and East York, Ontario, Canada; Puerto Rico

Although ferrets aren't actually illegal in New York City or Minneapolis, MN, they are not welcomed and may be confiscated or ticketed. Similarly, although it's legal to own ferrets in South Carolina, it's not legal to sell them there, and the state is known to be pretty ferret-unfriendly. Many military bases ban ferrets. It seems to be at the discretion of the base commander. Permits or licenses are required in order to own ferrets in the following places: New Jersey ($10/year), Rhode Island ($10/year), Illinois (free). Permits are also required in St. Paul, MN, and may be difficult to obtain. These lists are by no means complete, so check locally before you buy a ferret.

Ferret Health (courtesy TexasFerret & EverythingFerret.com)

Nutrition
Ferrets need to be provided with fresh food and water twenty-four hours a day. Ferrets will not normally overeat. Feeding your ferret a proper diet is extremely important. Ferrets are carnivores and should be fed a high protein (at least 34%), high fat (at least 20%) high quality chicken or lamb based dry ferret diet (See Shopping- Ferret Food, Treats and Vitamin Supplements for examples). Do not feed cat food - it does not have proper nutrients and can contribute to health problems! Totally Ferret, Zupreem for Ferrets, and Ultimate 8 and 1 or Marshall's Diet are the best choices. Chicken or lamb should be listed in some form (poultry, lamb or poultry meal) as the number one ingredient in the list of ingredients on the back of the bag. You should also look for food that is naturally preserved with vitamin E and has no artificial colors. Ferrets have very short digestive tracts, so they need a food that contains easily digestible meat protein. Foods that list grain or corn as the first ingredient should not be used. Many ferrets like the occasional bit of cooked egg or soft fruit treat (a couple grapes, raisins, banana slice). If you are feeding your ferret a high quality food, supplements are not really necessary (unless they are ill and off their regular feed). A few drops of Ferretone or a pea sized dab of Ferretvite should suffice as a daily treat (don't follow the directions on the bottle- your ferret's food contains vitamin A as well). Always be aware of the dangers of possible vitamin A toxicity. For this reason, it is not advisable to give your ferret too much of any supplement, even though they may really enjoy it.

If you have an older ferret (4+) you may want to switch to a low protein dry food. To switch your ferret's food, add a very small amount of the new food to the old food, gradually increasing the amount of new food over a period of days or weeks. Avoid dairy, apple peel, nuts, chocolate, salt or carrots.

Bathing
Baths are recommended no more often than once a month. More frequent bathing will dry out the skin and coat, and actually make your ferret smell worse as the body works extra hard to produce more skin oils. Ferrets will smell the worst in the 2-3 weeks after a bath as their skin oils replenish. Some owners recommend bathing only when needed (such as if the ferret gets dirty playing in something or picks up fleas) or twice a year. Bathing your pet eliminates the accumulation of glandular secretions that give the fur a flattened, oily look, or discolor the coat. A thorough washing with a ferret shampoo and medium warm water will remove heavy soil deposits. Bathing also aids in the reduction of such external parasites as fleas and ticks. There are a number of good ferret shampoos on the market. A kitten shampoo is fine or a no-tears baby shampoo which is good to use on the ferret's head to avoid eye irritation. In the winter, when the air in your house is dryer, it is helpful to use a conditioner on your ferret to keep its skin from becoming too dry. Older ferret also tend to have drier skin.

Trimming Nails
Left untrimmed, long nails make walking difficult, painful, and ultimately, impossible. Long nails are dangerous; they become entangled in bedding and clothing and risk being pulled out. You may incur serious scratches even during gentle play with your ferret. Filing nails tends to be time consuming and ineffective. Nails should be clipped every other week. Clipping at one week may be uncomfortable for the ferret and cause retraction of the "quick" which can lead to later arthritis, and waiting three weeks allows the "quick" to elongate, which can cause pain while walking. Be sure to trim the nails on all four feet (back nails grow a bit more slowly than front). Use clippers designed for cats or dogs. These can be looped clippers, or special scissor-like tools designed especially for the task. Use human nail clippers as a last resort; they don't provide as much control, ability to see what you are doing, and the curved ends can cut another toe. Cut just below the white tip in front of the pink area (the "quick") of each nail. If you cut into the pink area, you will hit a vein and the ferret will bleed. Styptic pencil or Kwik Stop will stop the blood flow; cold water, cornstarch, or talcum powder work also.

Try one of the following methods to trim nails: (1) Ask a friend or family member to assist you, (2) "Scruff" the ferret--grasp the ferret by the skin on the back of the neck as a mother would carry a kit and let it hang in the air; your ferret should be rendered motionless by this grip. (3) Put a drop of Linatone or Ferretone on the ferret's stomach and while he is licking it off, you can trim the nails, or (4) Trim the nails when the ferret is asleep (be quick!). Distractions with Nutrical or Laxatone also work well. Try to clip nails AFTER a bath, not before.

Ear Cleaning
A careful bimonthly cleaning will remove waxy buildup and reduce the possibility of ear wax hardening and causing hearing problems. Ferrets may also receive scratches to the inside of the ears during vigorous play or scratching with too-long nails. Gentle cleaning removes dried blood deposits which feel uncomfortable and could increase irritation to the ears.

To clean the ears, use a Q-tip moistened with a gentle cleanser such as Oti-Clens or Clorahexiderm. You could use hydrogen peroxide or mineral oil, but HP may dry out the ear, and mineral oil may add to the was problem. Alcohol is too strong and painful to the sensitive ear membranes. Swab out the ear and twirl the Q-tip between your fingers to get deep enough into the ear. Do not force the Q-tip any deeper than the twirling action permits. Be sure to tilt the Q tip to follow the natural direction of the ear canal, but do not penetrate the canal. You may wish to scruff your ferret while cleaning.

Cleaning ears will help in the detection and eradication of earmites, which are small, bloodsucking parasites visible under a microscope. Ferrets frequently get earmites (often arriving from the petstore with them), and if left untreated, these can cause infection or affect your ferret's balance. If the ferret scratches or rubs its ears along the floor or walls of its cage, or if the ferret seems to lose its balance, chances are your ferret has earmites. Earmites produce a black ear wax with a strong odor. Ear drops with a miticide are available from your vet or pet store (buy one that is safe for kittens, such as Nolvamite or Cerumite), are used for treatment. Treatment is daily, and involves putting several drops down the ear canal and rubbing it in. If you have more than one pet, all will need to be treated, as this bug is highly contagious. Some theorize that the "thumping" motion that animals make when scratched around the ears is due to earmites, not ecstasy! In a severe case, a vet can administer ivermectin drops every two weeks for two to three sessions. It is important to administer any earmite preventive medicine exactly according to instruction so the egg/adult cycle can be broken.

Dental Care
Ferrets have 40 adult teeth on which plaque can collect and calcify to form tartar if not removed. Tartar can also form under the gumline and cause infection and tooth decay. This infection can cause kidney disease, digestive problems, and severe discomfort for the ferret. Dental neglect means that your ferret will have to go to the vet, be anesthetized, and scale the teeth. This is particularly hard (and risky) on older ferrets, and expensive for any ferret. Avoid the need for this by brushing your ferret's teeth!

A diet of dry food helps cleanse the teeth. With this diet, twice per month brushing is sufficient. However, other food supplements, such as raisins, fruit, Nutrical, Laxatone, Petromalt, or any soft or sugary foods may mean that you may have to brush your pet's teeth weekly or even twice weekly.

Brush your ferret's teeth with a ferret or kitten toothbrush, using a pet dentifrice such as Pet Dent, CET, or Petrodex. Never use floride toothpaste made for humans! Additionally, never use a toothbrush made for humans. Even the softest human baby toothbrush is 3 times too harsh for a ferret. Brushes will either have handles or fit over the finger. Brush the teeth as you would brush your own, but you do not need to rinse, with these specially designed pet toothpastes. It is normal for some gum bleeding to occur the first few time you brush. You can put Oxyfresh gel on the bums after brushing. Thoroughly clean the brush with antibacterial soap.

If your ferret simply cannot stand the brushing, other minimal dental care should take place. There are special pet mouthwashes than can be rubbed over your ferret's teeth with a cloth. Or your ferret may simply chew on the toothbrush. Chew toys can also help reduce plaque, such as Ferretone on a rope toy, Nylabone dental toys, or Kong toys. However, proactive scrubbing with a brush is the best method.

Even with regular dental attention, a ferret may need to see the vet for a tooth scaling. Make sure the vet uses isofluorane gas and not injectable ketamine to put your ferret under. Under no circumstances should a ferret's teeth be filed.

Ferret-Proofing Your Ferret's Environment
Yes, ferret-proofing directly affects ferret health. Ferrets are very curious by nature and can get injured or even killed by their natural attraction to all the wrong human things. Although it is impossible to completely "ferret proof" your home, certain things can be done to make sure your ferret stays safe. Ferrets are less destructive than cats, but they love to get into EVERYTHING, so if you keep them loose you'll need to make sure they can't hurt themselves or your possessions. They love to steal small (and not so small!) objects and stash them under chairs and behind furniture. They like to chew on spongy, springy things, which must be kept out of reach or they'll swallow bits. Accessible boxes, bags, and trash cans will be crawled in, and houseplants within reach are liable to lose all their dirt to joyful digging.

Hidden dangers:
-- block off spaces behind major appliances in kitchen, baths and utility rooms no matter how small
-- cover open cabinet corners and spaces under cabinets where the base doesn't meet cabinet itself
-- store cleaning supplies and medications stored in top/childproof cabinets
-- keep soap bars at tubs and sinks out of reach
-- keep toilet lids down - ferrets have been known to drown
-- ban all styrofoam, foam rubber or soft rubber items like hand weights, shoe inserts, rubber bands, sponges
-- keep house plants out of reach (poisonous)

If your ferret has free roam of the house, check inside:
-- the reclining chair before you recline
-- the dishwasher or dryer

American Ferret Association
Modern Ferret Magazine
Ferret Information Rescue Shelter & Trust Society
Ferret First Aid